The following are some beginning climbing recommendations. These have been graciously provided by Erik Filsinger.

Girlie Man Crag

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Tom’s Thumb Trail Head

Take Tom’s Thumb Trail to Mesquite Canyon Trail to Feldspar Trail to Mesquite Canyon Climber Access route. Girlie Man Crag sits a short distance up the canyon on the right hand side and is characterized by a large white slab face.
The climbs are, from left to right:

• A Girl’s Best Friend – 5.3, 20 meters, slab with bolts, bolted rap rings
• Smoother – 5.8, 20 meters, slab with bolts, horizontal crack, bolted rap rings
• Dog Gone It – 5.7, 20 meters, slab with bolts, horizontal crack, bolted rap rings
• Sassy – 5.2, 30 meters, wide crack, bolted rap rings
• Pastie Whitie – 5.6, 25 meters, slab with bolts, horizontal crack bolted rap rings

And on a separate north facing slab 50 meters to climber’s right:

• Girlie Man – 5.9+, 20 meters, face, bolted rap rings
• Sphinctre Boy, 5.9, 20 meters, thin crack, bolted rap rings

Half and Half Crag

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Tom’s Thumb Trail Head

Tom’s Thumb Trail to Fort McDowell Climber Access Route at signpost TT3. Hike around and past Fort McDowell climbing crag up hill to sign post marking access route to Half and Half. Approach is made from the top of the crag with rap stations to bottom.

• Ride the Stallion – 5.4, 30 meters, trad placements and bolts, two-bolt anchor
• The Crack Less Traveled – 5.3, 15 meters, trad, two-bolt anchor
• Two Stepping – 5.8, 20 meters, bolts with horizontal crack, two-bolt anchor
• Half and Half – 5.8, 20 meters, bolts with horizontal crack, two-bolt anchor
• She’s a Country Girl – 5.6, bolts with horizontal crack, two-bolt anchor
• Head Crack – 5.6, vertical cracks, two-bolt anchor

One for the Road Crag

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Tom’s Thumb Trail Head

Take Marcus Landslide Trail from Tom’s Thumb Trail Head. Follow Sven Slab Climber Access Route to Sven Slab. Skirt left and around to south 200 yards until underneath One for the Road Crag. Head uphill to base. Great beginning lead area because of difficulty and ease of trad placements.

There are five defined routes available in the immediate vicinity. Moving from left to right:

• Crawl of the Wild — 5.4. 30 meters. Follow bolts up arête. Rap from station to left of climb in order to avoid bees in gully to climber’s right.
• One for the Road — 5.6. Two pitches. First pitch – 40 meters. Climb obvious right leaning hand crack to tree at large ledge. The second pitch (30 meters) starts behind the tree and works right around and underneath the prominent rock horn to top. Scramble down climbers left to large ledge and rap left of Crawl of the Wild.
• Left Chute — 5.4. 40 meters. The left hand east facing slab. Bolt and trad placements. Bolt anchor. Ends at ledge that cuts all the way across to top of Crawl of the Wild. (Bee careful of bees in gully to climber’s left.)

Sven Towers III Crag

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Tom’s Thumb Trail Head

Tom’s Thumb Trail to Mesquite Canyon Trail to Feldspar Trail and left to MesQuite Canyon Climber Access Route. At head of canyon follow signage up and left to saddle and down around east face to bottom of Sven Towers III or right to signs directing to top area of crag. All are good long routes with interesting climbing.

• Left Rib – 5.7+, 45 meters, bolts and trad placements, two-bolt rap anchor
• Ergon – 5.9, 45 meters, bolts and trad placements, two-bolt rap anchor
• Backbone – 5.7, 25 meters, on middle boulder, bolts, bolt anchor or move right to right hand climbs
• Spinal Nerve – 5.9+, two-pitches. First Pitch (30 meters), off-width Trad. Second Pitch (25 meters), gully to face move left past bolt to hand crack, bolted anchor.
• Undercling, 5.7 – 50 meters. Left side of right arête, bolts

The information contained within this page is intellectual property of Erik Filsinger, and has been provided to the AMC to be used on the AMC website on pages related to local climbing areas. Any other use or changes, require his expressed written consent. For additional information please visit the separate website Erik has created to share more about the McDowells – www.mcdowellsrockclimbing.com.

Enjoy!